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MODERN DINNERS |
by Kate Modern |
Just St.James16
St James's St.
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It was a cold but bright winter's day when I set off in search of Just St.James, a new restaurant and bar housed in the cavernous shell of a former banking hall on the corner of King Street and St.James's, just a pinstripe away from Jermyn Street in London's SW1. The interior is informal and divided into reception, bar and dining areas on the ground floor, with glass elevator and stairs leading to a balcony reserved for corporate events and private parties. We were welcomed with a complimentary glass of champagne followed by an appetiser of celeriac soup and crispy roasted veg, boy did I feel special, until I realised that everyone got the same treatment! The Christmas spirit abounded with tasteful decorations, 'live' piano music [provided by a digital piano] and plenty of Fortnum's carrier bags. House specialities from chef/proprietor Peter Gladwin include woodland mushrooms filled with wood pigeon, red onion and blackberries on a bed of leaf salad and triple breast of game, marinated in Fino sherry served on a rosti potato pancake with rich game jus. All game was firm and flavourful and portions were hearty enough for the biggest of 'old school tie' appetites. My smoked haddock and leek fishcakes were hot and crisp and tasted homemade, if a little too smokey, but were enjoyed by a lady to my left who had chosen them as a main course, a very clever piece of 'menu management'. For my main course the braised shank of lamb with red wine and shallots served with a colcannon of swede, cabbage and potato surpassed expectation in it's succulence and side orders of french beans and spinach & nutmeg were pronounced delicious by both. Just St.James's prides itself on its comprehensive range of wines which include great classics as well as some introducing some new surprises. House wines we sampled were Chateau la Besage, a 1999 Sauvignon and, in the red corner, Reserve de Capouliers, a 1998 Cote de Rhone, both exceptionally well chosen and, at £14.50 and £15.80 respectively, remarkably good value. Although very nearly stuffed to bursting point we couldn't stop before the dessert menu, 'Just desserts', a trio of miniatures including brandy snaps with passion fruit ice-cream, terrine of nectarine and blackberry and iced Pear William souffle proved irresistible, although the 'ensemble of exotic fruit' didn't quite do it for me. Tea and coffee followed along with a visit from Vicky, the manageress, and Henrik the bar manager. Service from Jade was impeccable but relaxed. The basement presently houses cloakroom and loos but is being transformed into an oriental style bar and brasserie. 'Just Oriental' will open on February 14th and will be accessible from the restaurant as well as having its own street entrance. I look forward to visiting 'J S J's' when the bar is thronging with the after work crowd, which is what it needs to fill its vast proportions, and also when the downstairs is in operation so that there will be an even greater choice of dining styles. Good value at around £90 per couple, including wine. Just St. James's just about did it for me at Christmas. I hope it does it for you in 2001 !!! BON APPETIT ! |
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For reservations,
tel: 020 7976 2222 fax: 020 7976 2020 |
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Please email us at info@happyhourtime.com |
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